4th week - Capadoccia and Bush Camps

I enjoyed my time while the Group was away seeing the sights.  They returned hot, bothered and tired. An overdose of scenery on top of at 5.00 a.m. start for ballooning had meant a revolt on the truck and a refusal to go into the carpet shop! The cook group surpassed themselves with a wonderful lentil soup and a chicken and vegetable soup and lovely crusty Turkish bread. The Bat Cave had a roaring fire and a good night's sleep resulted.

Capadoccia

The following morning after porridge and fresh bread most of us lazed around the camp whilst some went into Goreme to shop or have a Turkish Bath. After lunch we had a fairly short drive to our bush camp which although not exactly picturesque with a dead cow somewhere in the vicinity soon became home for the night. Tents were pitched, the cook group swung into action, chairs were put out, a beer was poured and after dinner a big fire was lit. So all was perfect in our world until the thunder and lightning started which was accompanied by a reasonably short sharp downpour. Rain finished some people remained on truck while others went back to fire which had survived the rain.

Bush Camp

CJ on wood duty

The alarm was not necessary the following morning as thunder was the wake up call. Fortunately the rain was elsewhere so apart from a few drops we were able to get everything packed away in the dry. I was my cook duty so melemen and little sausages were on the menu.Melemen is Turkish scrambled egg with onions, tomatoes and peppers. It seemed to go down well. A quick pack up and away as we had a fairly long day’s drive. Shopping was necessary and as an army marches on its stomach an overlanding truck has also consumes a fair amount of food. The little town of Zara had great fruit and vegetable shops and we were able to purchase all the necessities for our lunch and dinner and in addition I bought another blanket and bag to carry all the bedding in. Organisation is gradually happening and I am sure by the end of the bush camping, I will be an expert! Whilst waiting for everyone to return from their various missions in town including several of the men returning with arm full of logs, a little boy came out and served us all with tea and refused to take any money. The Turkish hospitality is legendry and once more it did not fail. If only I could say the same about the toilets which seem to be getting worse the further east we head! After stopping for lunch we made a good bush camp in the hills with views of mountains in the distance with snow on them. Although windy it was not cold and the cook group swung into action to create a Turkish meal of chickpea dip, lentils, aubergine and tomato, fresh mixed salad and then piece de resistance fruit salad with yoghurt and honey straight from the honeycomb. It was good to eat a Turkish meal in Turkey.

Wendy and pide

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Serious cooking

Dismantling camp

Later we piled on to the truck as it was blowing a gale and had a quiz very well organised by Zoe and Susan. The Teachers’ Pets won following by my group BB and the bitches which was made up of Ben, Jim (also known as Bob, hence the BB), Andrea, Wendy and myself. Andrea had been shopping and made the boys wear pink fairy wings and we had little woolen children’s’ hats. Ben looked just like one of Santa’s elves when he put one on.


After a rather disturbed night – loo visit, wind, thunder and rain, the morning was bright and sunny and relieved of cook duty it was an easy pack up and departure. We travelled through high passes and into valleys where the floor of the valley was cultivated and the houses clung to the valley sides. So far on our trip the highest we have reached 2190 metres and there is still plenty of snow on the tops of the mountains. Later in our trip we will reach more than double that height. The truck is quiet with people playing cards at the back and others dozing, reading or sorting out photos on laptops. Travel is so different from when I was in Africa in 1969 when there were no mobiles, digital cameras, computers or internet. This form of travel is quite alien to me being used to finding my own transport from place to place, where I will sleep that night and what I will see. In some respects it is better as the responsibility is shouldered by our leaders and I know that there is no way I could do this trip on my own – I would probably have never got past Georgia – but I do miss the studying of Lonely Planet and working out my own route and itinerary.
 
Our lunch break was broken by two shabbily dressed plain clothed policemen having a sticky beak. They were very polite and told me there was no problem and I gave them a conducted tour of the truck. We stopped in the town of Macka to pick up bread and started climbing towards the Monastery to find a campsite. The Sumer restaurant came into view which combined restaurant, trout farm and camp site and with clean loos and a shower it was perfect for our needs.
 
 

Walking up to Sumela

Aquaduct at Sumela

Sumela Monastry

The following morning we went up to Sumela Monastery. It was a 3 km uphill climb which did nothing for my ankle and I was very relieved to get there. Unfortunately there was a really heavy mist and so the view was non-existent and the Monastery proved to be a bit of a disappointment due to over restoration and hordes of tourists. The frescoes in the little church were good but even better I managed to thumb a lift back down the mountain with a lovely Turkish couple! Back at the campsite in the rain, I went into the restaurant to buy butter. Knowing Turkish proved useful – CJ had bought cheese and the cook group had bought lard! A few of us had dinner of excellent trout and salad in the restaurant that night. No wine however as it was extremely expensive.


The following day we drove past the tea fields near Rize before hitting the border. Tea seems to be grown on every spare bit of land and having enjoyed the tea for so many years it was lovely to see how it actually grows. The border crossing was straight forward only enlivened by a coach nearly running CJ over (not funny) and then proceeding to smash its front mirror on the customs building taking down a couple of tiles. Of course much hand waving and gesticulating followed.

Our hotel in Batumi had a Soviet feel about it – rather dark and gloomy but the water was hot and the bed comfortable. The town itself was pretty dreadful. The roads were mud pits and it was all rather depressing but the people were lovely and friendly and although not much English was spoken, I was able to buy an ankle brace in the chemist by using Turkish and we wrote down the name of the pills we wanted and she looked them up on the computer and gave us the generic brand at half the price. Our evening meal was at what proved to be a rather expensive restaurant but was pretty delicious.

I decided hotel should be renamed Fawlty Towers. The waiter, who was the barman last night, was rushing round like Manuel, there was no milk and the omelette was rather greasy and salty. We were late getting off for what was to prove to be a very long day. Lunch was taken in a very scenic cattle shed complete with cow pats. It was Susan’s birthday and we hadn’t stopped for long when a group of men appeared bringing wine, brandy and chocolate. Several of the girls got propositions of marriage and a right old party ensued. CJ had to move things along as we still had a very long drive ahead of us so the party moved back to the truck and much very unmelodious singing took place for several hours until at about 9.00 p.m. one by one the revellers crashed!

One of the many landslides on the road

On arrival we were allocated out homestays. The single women rather drew the short straw with damp rooms, non flushing toilet and a huge hole in the wash basin but the guest house was warm and comfortable and the food fantastic. I have decided I really like Georgian cooking with the stuffed cheese bread, dumplings filled with meat, spicy garlicy aubergine meze and cornflour and cheese patties along with delicious honey and other delicasies.

3rd week on Calypso

So the third week started and everyone seems to be settling into overlanding life. For my part I now sleeping well in the tent and seem to have either worked out the coldness at night problem or have become acclimatized. Of course it could be that the weather is warming up as we move south! Time will tell as Capadoccia will be cold at night so maybe my new found confidence will be shattered. Also the Blog or Battle of the Blog as I have come to think of it as seems to becoming easier and I am determined to keep it up to date so that I don't end up with a massive task at week end.



In line for the Turkish border

 Leaving Bulgaria meant an early start and we were expecting a long day which proved to be the case. This was one time we were allowed to call Calypso a bus which enabled us to pass literally miles of trucks queueing to go through the border. The poor drivers looked like they would be for days. Getting the visas and being checked through passport control but quick and easy, visiting the cafe and toilet took us another half hour or so and then we waited and waited and waited - six hours in total.

 It wasn't a great surprise to Jim, CJ or myself being used to Turkish beauracracy but I think the others were a little surprised. Some people read or updated diaries, others played games but all of us were very relieved when we were told we could go. We did have a steady stream of people come over and talk to us about where were were going and what we were doing and we waved at all the rally cars that came through for the big meeting in Istanbul. Once we hit Turkey it was a straight drive through to Istanbul with just one loo break. The one way system which has changed in recent months meant we did a bit of a Cook's tour before reaching the hostel. At one point we were in a Mexican standoff with five men yelling at Jim who remained totally calm. CJ had run up the hill to tell the hostel we were there and to find out about parking. In the midst of the mahyem, another man came up and told Jim that if he wanted a haircut, his barber's was just round the corner - could only happen in Turkey. Bags in room, a bowl of soup and an Efes beer restored me.

The following morning after a good night's sleep in my dorm of eight, I took a group to the Underground Cistern.  Unfortunately the weather was extremely unkind in the form of torrential rain.  We walked past some of the rally cars that had passed us the previous day and I vowed to come back later when the rain had stopped to take photos.  The rain did not stop, I did not take photos and the following day they had gone.  Carpe diem!  Back to the hostel and the Battle of the Blog continued much to CJ's amusement.  I think he will always link me with the term "resizing".  But a victory was achieved and the first week was posted.  I felt like I had won a million pounds!

After an excellent breakfast, continued to work on 2nd week of blog.  Defeat was not an option!  Sue, my friend from Adapazari arrived at about 11.00 and we walked up the Divan Yolu to have a good cup of coffee and a little apple cake for me.  Our object for the day was a walking tour of Beyazit which started with the Sehrezade Mosque which is near the Valens Aquaduct.  The Mosque has the most magnificent exterior but one feels that maybe they had run out of money as the inside is relatively plain but still lovely. 

Inside Serahzade Cami

Then on to the Vefa Bozacesi which is one of the older Boza establishments in Istanbul. Boza for the uninitiated is fermented turnip juice. Sounds disgusting and not something I have been tempted to try. I was just lining up to take the perfect photograph when a limousine with four smartly suited businessmen drew up, blocked the photo and went in to purchase the juice so someone must like it. Inside there is the cup, in a glass case, which Ataturk used when he visited the establishment.

Ataturk's Cup

Then it was a visit to the Kalenderhane Mosque which was formerly a church and where it is still possible to see the remains of frescoes.

Kalenderhane Mosque

Remains of Frescoes

Again this was a very different and interesting site and one not usually found by visitors to Istanbul. The toilet there was especially interesting as you went into what looked like a cellar but it was clean and quite savoury. At this stage in the trip the toilets are becoming less European and the squat is the norm in varying degrees of cleanliness.





Then a trip by tram across the river, a quick visit to the Fish Markets under the Galata Bridge, a ride on the Tunel up to Istiklar Cad. and we were in a different world.  Over there it is a smart hip happening area with expensive clothes and coffee shops.  A quick visit to St. Anthony's Church, the Flower Passage and the Fish Passage was followed by a hot chocolate with chilli which was unusual but probably won't be a repeated drink.  We continued wandering checking out restaurants for the following evening and walked back down the hill through the second hand shops and to a wonderful deli with an amazing array of cheese and cooked meat.



St Anthony's Church



Cicek Pasaji (Flower Passage)



A comfortable place to sleep





Back to Sultanhamet where Sue and I consumed a few glasses of the Hostel's excellent red wine and she ended up staying the night in the spare bed in our dorm.

Tile in Rusten Pasa Cami

The following day was taken up with rediscovering places that I have previously liked, the Spice Market, Rusten Pasa Cami, The Grand Bazaar and just wandering the streets. In the evening I took a crowd of the "oldies" over to Istiklar Cad again where we saw some of the sights I had seen the previous day and went to a restaurant recommended by Sue and Istanbul Eats. Keith was taken into the kitchen and I wished I had gone as they had excellent meze and the plate of lamb which although tasty wasn't very interesting.

The next morning was an early start due to a long day. The hostel had provided us with cheese and tomato rolls so we kept going until a loo break was necessary. When we stopped for lunch, a couple of guys came over and asked us not to light a fire as it was a petrol station!  They then very obligingly filled our thermos so we were able to have tea or coffee.

Eventually arrived at Kaya Camping.  It was a very cold night and when we were offered the cave to sleep in complete with log fire it was an easy choice for most of us.  I even got a bed so was really in luxury.  CJ rustled up pide for us and while most of the men decided to hit the bars in town, the rest of us had an hysterical evening due to Wendy's wig.  Russ looked just like one of the ABBA guys in it and Susan made a wonderful butch man with the addition of shoulder pads and socks stuffed in strategic places.  It was a great night.

Kaya camping

The following morning was taken up with domestic chores and internet.  Wendy and Colin could not connect and as their Kindle had broken too (3 out of 7 on the truck), they used mine to speak to Amazon.  Amazon would not send theirs to Azerbeycan so they will have to wait until they get back to New Zealand for a replacement.  At lunch time we headed off into Goreme and had just started walking up one of the valleys when clumsy me trod on a stone and twisted my ankle badly.  Fortunately we were not far into the walk so I hobbled back to main road and got a taxi back to the camp.  I spent the rest of the afternoon sitting with my foot in a bucket of water as Efes beer does not make a good cold compress so I had to drink it instead.  While I was waiting for the taxi a Turkish man came up and asked me if I needed help.  He then proceeded to do Keinesiology.  Of course I do not know whether it was that, the Ibuprofen, the homeopatic pills, the cold water, the Ibuprofen cream, the bandage, the beer or the red wine at dinner but I had a good night and it was much reduced in size by the following morning.  So most of my photos were either taken while waiting for the taxi at the Bufe or from my seat in the campsite.

Capadoccia Landscape

Capadoccia Landscape

 

Everyone was very kind and ran around getting me cups of tea etc and Andrea very expertly bandaged my foot.

We went as a group out for dinner to eat lamb cooked in pottery jars.  They knock the top of the jar at the table and the lamb is succulent and delicious.

Minaret at sunset



It was a good evening and Lucy's birthday so some of the girls had made up a little ditty which was most amusing. In the lower room of the restaurant there were some interesting antiques and I spent some time trying out different exposures on the camera but I think the camera is considerably cleverer than I am and takes the best photos on auto.

Antiques in restaurant

 Back to camp and a chatty evening was spent near the fire until bed time.
 

Keith and Sanda snug as bugs in
the cave!

 
The following morning the gang set off for day tour but Cinderalla stayed behind.  I had done tour before and knew that I would spend a lot of time on the bus while they were walking or going into the underground city.  I was quite happy with my blog and got to talk to some friends on the computer.  At lunch time I took a taxi into town and had lentil soup which was delicious and decided against buying a rug for next camp.  I will pick up something cheaply at a service station somewhere which I can dispose of in Nepal when we stop camping. 

Jim hanging out his smalls!

Getting arty when I could not move

2nd week on Calypso



Lunch on the road to Turda Gorge

 So the first week passed in a bit of a blur and we are now old hands at the art of packing up the tent, getting it into its bag and securing the tape.  The first few days it just did not work but Papa Bear (Russ) took time to show us how to do it properly and first time!  The drive from Budapest was pretty flat although the scenery was enlivened by the fields of bright yellow rape which cheered up the landscape.  After the Romanian border we stopped by the side of the road in a service station.  A less picturesque place would be hard to imagine but as Jim said there is a loo, a supermarket and a street market, what more could you want?  We reached the campsite at Turda Gorge which was initially a bit of a disappointment as we had been expecting to bush camp and there were a lot of people around but there was a loo which was a bonus point and when the day trippers had gone home (it was Easter Monday) it was beautiful and very peaceful.



Camp site at Turda Gorge

 After breakfast of  baked beans and porridge, CJ organised a gentle walk along the gorge with the mountain rescue guys. Their idea of gentle and mine did not match. At first it was very pleasant walking along with the stream tinkling away alongside us and then after a visit to a cave we started to climb and climb and climb. Eventually we reached the top and had our sandwiches and they suggested an easy climb down to see a special cave. So a difficult scramble down revealed a none too spectacular cave. I thought my troubles were over but they had only just began as the walk down was much harder as the ground was very slippery. I made it with the help of the mountain rescue guy and Colin and was much relieved to be back at camp level after only three slips onto my bottom!

The following day we reached Sighisoara after a stop for shopping at the local supermarket.  Our shopping tour through Eastern Europe showed an interesting and different side to our travels.  The supermarkets are vast and filled with a large range of products that are easily recognizable plus others that were unidentifiable.  This particular store had an area where you could buy your lunch and then eat it at a table standing up.  The chicken livers purchased there were delicious. I also purchased some kiwis, bananas, cream cheese and a banana.  Sighisoara came into view in all its glory and it looked like a wonderful place to spend the afternoon.  The thought of having a room, a comfy bed, a shower and a bath was quite exciting after ten days in a tent and after a long hot shower and washing some clothes, Melissa and I headed into town.  Naturally we came across a number of our party in a bar but I headed off into the historic part of town and enjoyed quietly walking the streets.  Although being a UNESCO World Heritage site the town is geared in a small way to tourism and has been restored in a sympathetic manner and I was able to walk entirely by myself through the back streets of the town up to the top of the hill.  The long walk was rewarded by two men playing wonderful music on guitars at the top of the covered stairs that took me back ito town. A meal of beans with pork and sausage and 1/2 litre of sangria ended a good day.

The Clock Tower

The Bootmaker's Tower

The following morning, a quick dash to the supermarket netted some bread rolls, yoghurt and juice for breakfast and then the long drive to Bucharest which was broken by a visit to the incredible Peles Castle.  Walking up the long drive, the castle looked like something out of fairy tale and when inside the castle


Peles Castle



Bears - not a one in sight


this impression was reinforced with the sumptuous carved wood, enormous mirrors, gilt and silver and the Turkish room was a mass of wonderful carpets and fabrics.  Even though the place was so opulent you still had the feeling that it was once a home and a very modern one at that with central vacuum system, central heating and lift.  The library had a hidden staircase so that the King could get to his private rooms without petitioners who were waiting for him being able to see him. 

At Bucharest we quickly got organised and dinner of coq au vin with mushrooms was on the table in no time at all.  The following morning we caught taxis into town which took us through fine avenues and parks into the centre of town which was rather a disappointment being drab and rather derelict looking.  As it was the day of the Royal Wedding after a cup of coffee at McDonalds, a group of us headed to a bar which had a TV and we ensconced ourselves for the best part of the day.  The bar had great internet access and we were able to charge all our computers, cameras etc and apart from building works going on across the road and the constant sound of jackhammers we spent an enjoyable time there. 

Andrea, Zoe and Wendy outside the
People's Palace

After the kiss on the balcony, we headed off to the People's Palace which is the 2nd largest building in the world after the Pentagon. Such an opulent display of grandeur in a poor country seems indecent but in appears too often be the way. It is actually rather a lump of a building and not pleasing aesthetically but I suppose it showed power to the people.

Bucharest

Romanian commentator for Royal
Wedding

A group dinner had been organised and as the rain was threatening a very quick walk took us to the restaurant which specialised in Romanian food.  We walked through the cafe area of town which was very smart and gave the impression that Bucharest could evenutally be rather an exciting town but right now it still has some work to do on its image.



Charlie Chaplin with mice running round his hat


Romanian food is maybe not the most delicious cuisine I have ever experienced being rather stodgy and heavy but my meal of chicken stuffed vine leaves was fine.  However, the polenta was pretty bland but I had been warned!  What it needed was plenty of parmasen cheese and black pepper, neither of which was offered.

A taxi took us back to camp in record speed.


The following morning it was back to the truck for the drive to our next camp near Veliko Tarnova.  This site is run by two Brits, Nick and Nicky and was well organised with serviced washing facilities, great showers and a restaurant on site.  The weather had been poor but was reasonably kind to us during our stay which was meant to be two nights but ended up being three as we were very comfortable there and the thought of packing up  for a bush camp in the forecast rain was not very appealing. 



Entrance to camp site

 After setting up the tent, Wendy, Colin and I walked into the little village which did not have a lot to offer but we did chat to some old ladies and asked to take their photos.  They were not keen on the idea miming that they were too old!  The following morning a delicious hot shower and eggy bread for breakfast was a great start to the day.  Went with Colin and Wendy into Veliko Tarnova which is the second largest city in Bulgaria.  We were surprised to see crowds of people milling around the square and waiting to go up to the Castle. 

Castle at Veliko Tarnova


We spent a couple of hours walking round the site.  It was an interesting place but had been rather over restored, Turkish style.  A good cup of coffee was had at a very smart hotel and then following the recommendation of Lonely Planet we walked up the steps to the old town of Varosha where there were some interesting shops with lovely glass and ceramics.  Resisting the glasses that you could jump on and they would not smash, I was unable to resist a small bowl with handle in the red colour of my Poole pottery vases.  The prices were so reasonable that it wasn't easy not the buy up the whole shop.  After all the castle looking and shopping, food was necessary and a delicious pizza of apple, sultana and walnut with mozarella cheese made an interesting and light (it was said to be a diet pizza which seems to be a bit of a contradiction in terms) lunch.  Back at camp, loaded photos onto Picassa and waited for our dinner of roast beef and all the trimmings in the camp restaurant.


Old town of Varosha



Eating pizza of apple, raisin and walnut



Old town of Veliko Tarnova

 The following morning, it was bacon, eggs, tomato and mushroom before a walk up into the hills which ended, due to our fearless leader Steve turning right instead of left, (where were you Papa Bear) walking along a rather brambly train track.  Some bag reorginazation was necessary for our stay in Istanbul before an early night.

 

First Week on Calypso



Calypso at Dover

 The day that I had been planning, working and waiting for eventually dawned and after another rearrangement of my bags, a final cooked English breakfast and a sad farewell to Dad and Bren, my fellow overlanders and I, plus a huge amount of luggage were on the truck and away. Our first camp was in Tournai in Belgium where we were instructed in the art of tent putting up and the various jobs we would be doing for the next few months. We also learnt that Calypso is a truck and not a van, coach, bus and that Jim is a truck driver and not a van, coach or bus driver!  That is except when it is expedient for the truck to be a bus when going through borders.  A slip of the tongue results in a non- response from Jim.  CJ is our other leader and a great Mr Fix It when it comes to problems regarding same borders as he speaks a variety of languages and has the patience of a saint as does Jim whose driving skills are a wonder to us all.  A delicious supper was followed by an early and rather sleepless cold night which resulted in me oversleeping my breakfast duty.



Cologne Cathedral



Cologne was our destination for the following day which was reached in time for a sandwich and apple lunch. After it was cleared away, we walked as a group the 5 km into the city along the river and the magnificent cathederal gradually came into view. The challenge was to climb the 507 steps to the top of the tower which with much huffing and puffing I managed. The reward was some beautiful singing in the cathederal followed by a German meal with the smallest beers imaginable. Despite my -5 degree sleeping bag I was feeling the cold and that combined with a rather thin thermarest (some people had the most luxurious mattresses) did not give me the best night's sleep but the following day was able to doze on the bus to Bamberg.

The camp site there was extremely luxurious with the best shower facilities ever. The walk into town was through a beautiful park and the town itself, although geared to tourists was just lovely.

An unusual window box in Bamberg

The River at Bamberg

 Stephen, Paul and I walked around together enjoying the sunshine and the local scene. Lunch was German sausage from a van in the market where I salivated over the huge white asparagus and other lovely fruit and vegetables. After a climb up to the top of the hill and a visit to the Cathedral, we walked back through the woods and the park to the camp site.

After a long day's travelling, we entered the Czech Republic and, after a stop at the local Tesco where I bought a space mat in an attempt to combat the cold, hit the camp site.  Putting up the tent is getting easier and things are getting a bit more organised. 

Prague

 The following day, a bus took me into the city and the scrum that was Prague.  My meeting with a friend did not eventuate for various reasons and the crowds were slightly overwhelming so a bus tour of the city seemed a good option.




Astrological Clock

 At the Castle I left the tour and walked down the hill stopping for a salami sandwich.  Heading for the Charles Bridge a very nice young man from Gambia talked me into taking a boat tour which was extremely pleasant way to see another aspect of Prague aided by a large Czech beer.  The metro back to the bus stop was an easy and quick way  to get out of town and I met Sylvia and Russ at the stop so knew I was heading the right way!  Back at the camp, the bar was the focal point and the dark beer was excellent.

Cook duty meant an early start and it was a long day's drive to Budapest.  We continued our Tesco tour of Eastern Europe and a blanket was added to my increasing amount of luggage.  The Budapest camp site was the most crowded I have ever seen with campervans cheek by jowl with barely space for the inhabitants to get out of their vans.  Jim had to negotiate a 72 point turn (??) to get us into position and received a large cheer and clap from us overlanders plus the large crowd that had gathered to watch the fun.  We also discovered discrimation there.  The women had small cramped showers that were cold and the men had spacious hot showers.  Needless to say, us ladies used the men's showers after the first night!  The trip into the city was by bus and we arrived to a rather damp drizzly day but it was quiet with virtually no-one around.  A walk along the river past some magnificient buildings and the holacaust memorial took us to the Chain Bridge and a restoring cup of coffee.

Lovely dog in campside the size of a small donkey

Parliament Building

Holacaust Memorial

Heroes Memorial

Many of the group took the hop-on, hop-off bus tour but I decided to walk the length of Andrassay Ut.  Having headed off in the wrong direction, it took rather longer than anticipated but was lovely with some fine architecture.

 

A walk across the chain bridge and a steep path took me tp the Bupa part of town and some more wonderful buildings. Tired feet sent me back to the site where I enjoyed a lovely glass of Bull's Blood wine with Sylvia and Russ.