Cooking, Shopping and Skinny Dipping

Early start as some of us were going off to do a cooking course. Stopped on way for breakfast - a mango and pineapple lassi for me. The cooking course was wonderful. Firstly we went to the market, which is so busy and vibrant, to learn about the various foods used in Vietnamese cooking - the herbs, the spices, the fish, the fruit and the vegetables and then it was back to the cooking school.

Early morning in Hoi An

Learning about the different garlic

Oranges and Dragon Fruit

The set up was fantastic. We each had our own cooking station and we able to watch the chef via an overhead mirror. The joy of the whole thing was that a lot of the preparation was already done so we did not waste time chopping and mixing. Life would be so much easier in the home if there was a minion running around clearing away the dirty pans and providing you with freshing chopped ingredients!

We learnt how to make cabbage soup with poached prawn rolls. It does not sound that exciting but the flavour was delicate and delicious and would be easy to recreate at home so be warned Aussies it is now on my dinner party repetoire.

Cabbage soup with poached prawn rolls

Next it was fresh spring rolls which are a particular favourite of mine but these had a twist in that there was a small deep fried roll included. I would not bother with that at home as I don't think the fresh rolls need that enhancement but apparently the Vietnamese like having the contrast of smooth with crunchy.

Fresh spring rolls

These were followed by marinating chicken in about 12 different spices to be barbequed. Again this was easy for us as all the ingredients were sitting in little bowls ready for us to add a teaspoon of each. Most were readily available in Australia and the resulting mix smelled wonderful.

Barbeque chicken

After that we made crispy pancakes which nearly resulted in a kitchen fire due to Lucy. Dear Lucy, it could only happen to her!

Crispy pancake with dipping sauce

And lastly a green mango salad which you see on all menus in Vietnam. This tested our cutting skills with the Vietnamese slicer which is a little like an overgrown potato peeler. My mango was particularly hard and I did not find it that easy to do but when the chef came round she asked Lucy to share her mango with me as mine would not have been very nice. Our chicken was delivered back to us perfectly barbequed and we enjoyed eating the results of our labours. Great morning.

Mango salad

After a refreshing Lemon Grass icecream, Aiofe, Melissa and I went off to dress shop to look at dress I had seen earlier. Considering that yesterday I was not enthusiastic about getting things made, I had a complete change of heart and went a little crazy! A cocktail type dresss slightly a la Marilyn Munro (without the boobs!), a skirt and black linen top and a red and white sundress and I was then taken to the shoe shop where I ordered two pairs of shoes to go with the above! Reeling out of there I then headed to the swimsuit shop where a pair of bathers was ordered.

Back to the hotel to recover for Wendy's birthday drinks by the pool and back to the cooking school restaurant for an excellent birthday meal of squid stuffed with pork which is a speciality of the area. Not sure how easy that would be to recreate at home but may give it a go one day when I have a home! The birthday cake not only looked scrumptious but the chocolate mousse was light and did not have a calorie in it - I wish.

Wendy's birthday dinner

Calamari stuffed with pork

I was up again early as I was very impressed with the clothes Wendy had had made at a little shop down the road so off I went and quickly ordered another sundress and skirt and top before heading back to hotel to meet up with a group of us who were going out motorbiking. Denis had had second thoughts and said he would take me pillion as long as I wore proper shoes, long trousers and a long sleeves shirt. He turned up in shorts and flip flops!

The Riders

With Denis

Palm Forest

We had a great morning going round the fishing villages and down dead ends. All the people were so friendly and waving and shouting hello to us and the school children were so sweet in their school uniforms cycling in the blazing heat to school.

Fishing Village

Bridge in fishing village

Fishing boats

A couple of girls stopped and asked us where we were going and suggested we go to Marble Mountain which turned out to be a brilliant suggestion as it was a wonderful place which we reached by lift (thank heavans) as the heat was intense. There was a cool breeze up there and we wandered around the pagodas and into the atmospheric caves. Quite a magical place and one to which I would like to return. Then it was on to China Beach for a dreadful lunch but we did pass old army buidings which amazingly have remained for the nearly 40 years since the American left the area.

Roofs on Marble Mountain

Inside Cave on Marble Mountain

Magic light inside cave

Hot, sweaty and tired we returned to the hotel but for me no time to rest as it was a long walk back to the first dress shop for a fitting. Needless to say everything needed to be altered but they told me to return at 7.00. The one pair of shoes was far too tight so they were going to be remade. On to the second shop where the clothes also needed alterations and one top completely remade as it was awful, the wrong colour and I hated it but the lady was perfectly charming and said it would be ready by 8.00. The swimsuit was perfect. After a very short rest Melissa and I went on the hunt for cocktail ingredients for our cocktail party at the beach in two days time. Inspiration was lacking and I wasn't prepared to pay 240,000 dong for Malibu so it was back to the drawing board. The second fitting of the clothes went well and just one skirt needed further attention so we went for dinner by the river (snapper fish baked with lemon grass in a banana leaf which was inspired and truly delicious and less than £3 - I love this country).

Dinner of snapper baked in banana leaf with lemon grass

Third time lucky for clothes and all were good even though one pair of shoes still felt a little tight but I was so hot that may be when I am cooler they will be better.   The second clothes shop also came up trumps and all was well there. A stop at the little grocers to buy cocktail ingredients and as there was no coconut milk, the lady went off on her motorbike to fetch some and also to get us a pineapple - what service. Back to hotel to try and fit all new purchases into backpack. Oh dear - there is not a spare inch now and shoes did not fit at all. Next time I come to Hoi An, I am going to come with a full wallet, an empty suitcase and a plan. I also intend to do another cooking course, a photography course, another motorbike ride and to actually see something of the town. Who would like to come with me?

Another early start (and this is a holiday) for our journey to Jungle Beach where there are no shops and nowhere except the bar to spend money - what a relief! The bus was spacious but the air-conditioning was not working so as the day wore on it became more and more like a sauna. The driver had been given a present for Christmas – a very loud horn - which he sounded continuously so even if you managed to drop off, the sleep was short-lived. We only stopped three times in the 11 hour day, twice for petrol and a pee stop and once so that we could buy coconuts. It was a hot, dusty, tired and hungry bunch that arrived at Jungle Beach in the dark. After a bit of room shuffling, we all met together for dinner which was a good selection of Vietnamese food and a cold beer and life was beginning to look up. After dinner, some of us went for a swim and were delighted with the blood temperature water and even better the bioluminescence which sparkled every time we moved. It was a perfect start to what was to be a fabulous stay, albeit too short!

Got up early the following morning to photograph the sunrise but it was cloudy on the horizon so we did not get a good view.

Fishing boat at dawn

Beach scene

Fishermen going out to boat

Fishing boats at dawn

So it was back to the resort for a wonderful swim. It was one of those lazy days with swimming, relaxing, more swimming, a bit of diary writing, lunch, a rest in a hammock, another swim and then at 4.00 putting on one of my new dresses and going down to the beach for cocktail hour. Tent mates had to make a cocktail in a bucket and give it a story. Melissa and I made a particularly well received cocktail of Vodka, Pineapple, Orange and Coconut milk and Melissa made up a poem which raised a good laugh and applause.

Lucy shaking water from her ears

Denis and Steve sharing a drink

Melissa and I sharing our cocktail

Mel’s poem


Mel                  There was a posh girl called Sally
                        Who liked exploring back alleys.
                        She booked a trip round the world
                        With a bag that not everything held.

Sally                 This is where she met Mel
                        Who is a lovely Essex girl.
                        They both liked an occasional tipple.
                        Sometimes Mel liked a triple.

Mel                  Sally said “Let’s make a cocktail”

Sally                Mel said “OK, if you know how”.
                       “How about we use eggplant”.

Mel                  “This is a wish I cannot grant”.

Sally                 Mel wanted coconut cream.
                        She said it had always been her dream.
                        OK, but what can we call it?

Mel                   “I dunno, but not something s**t!

S&M                As home is so far out of reach
                         Let’s call it ‘Essex on the beach’

Obviously there are some “in” jokes in this little ditty for which we are not expecting Mel to be awarded the Nobel prize for Literature. Sometime ago she nick-named me ‘back alley Sally’ as I was always dragging her down the little alleys away from the main tourist route. My fondness of eggplant had to get a mention and I am pleased to say I have converted some of the former eggplant haters to my way of thinking. For cocktail lovers you will know there is a cocktail named Sex on the Beach and Aiofe came up with the slight variation! It was all a lot of fun.

Sandra in the sun

Mrs Doyle aka Aiofe serving their cocktail

Jungle from the beach

The evening ended up with the majority of us skinny dipping in the warm sea admiring the bioluminescence and laughing at all and nothing. Amazing what a few cocktails do for you.

The following morning saw some sore heads and vows of swearing off alcohol for life but I was up and swimming in the early morning cool, enjoying my lovely breakfast of pancakes and fruit with an iced Vietnamese coffee and then spending the day alternating between the sea, the hammock and the restaurant. It is a hard life but someone has to do it. The day passed too quickly, the sun went down, the fishermen pulled in their nets, it became cooler and dinner was enjoyable. Another dip before bed but with sober heads the skinny dipping did not reoccur and the bioluminescence wasn’t as bright.

Garden at Jungle Beach

Dog enjoying the sunrise

Sylvia and Russ captured in the early morning sun

All good things come to an end and our stay at Jungle Beach will be remembered for many things. Sandra’s birthday and the cocktail party, dancing on the beach to “Sandra in the Sun”, skinny dipping, the many friendly dogs that accompanied us on our walks around the resort, the geckos in the bathroom, Lucy squealing that she was being attacked by something which turned out to be the strap on her bathers, Steve and his sea snake and probably one image which will always be carried is Silvio (the owner of the place) pushing a plate of birthday cake in CJ’s face! Life doesn’t get much better than this.

Sandra's birthday cake

CJ wearing Sandra's birthday cake with Silvio

Previously CJ was a swamp monster when he had a late night
encounter with a paddy field, this night he was a cake monster

Melissa's drawing in the sand

An early start for Ho Chi Minh but the bus was air-conditioned, was really spacious and the seats didn’t collapse so all was good in our world. As we left, Silvio pushed cards into our hands so if anyone is interested in staying in a little piece of paradise check out the website http://www.junglebeachvietnam.com/.

The drive was long but at least it was cool and we arrived in Ho Chi Minh in good fettle.  I took one look at the city and decided it was not for me.  I had been there seven years previously and had seen the sights so promptly booked a two day tour to the Mekong Delta.  I am sitting in the bathroom finishing this blog to send a day early!

On way to Ho Chi Minh City

Kayaking, motorbike riding and tunnelling

Halong Bay was our destination today. It had changed somewhat in the seven years since I was last there with many more boats and lots of new buildings but the road was much the same and we stopped in a tourist shop to use the loo and to be tempted into buying something but I kept my eyes straight ahead and didn't err from the straight and narrow.

On tender going to bay

Our cabins were very comfortable with excellent bathrooms although the cleanliness was a little suspect with cockroaches wandering about. The whole boat needed a woman's touch as some of the deck furniture was broken and there was nowhere shady to sit but in the event that wasn't too important as it was overcast most of the time.

Leaving the harbour at Halong Bay

After a wonderful lunch we swam until a couple of people were stung by jellyfish and so it was out of the water for most of us. Before that though I had thoroughly been enjoying wallowing in the warm sea and watching the brave jumping from the top deck. Long gone are the days when I used to enjoy leaping off the top board at Solihull swimming pool!

Relaxing on board at Halong Bay

Aiofe, Me and Lucy

The Water Babes!

Paddling with Denis in Halong Bay

Later we went kayaking which I haven't done for years but really enjoyed. My partner Denis did not have too much to complain about as I only stopped occasionally for a rest. Some of the group climbed up into a cave but I lent Aiofe my shoes as hers had broken which was a good excuse for me not to go. We paddled past the Fishing Village where people spend their lives on the water. The more I see of how other people live the more grateful I am for my own life.

Denis doing all the work

The Fishing Village

Another good meal and a bottle of red wine enjoyed with friends under the stars completed a wonderful day. And a great night's sleep was had with the rocking of the boat but morning came far too soon and we were expected at breakfast at 7.30 which was way too early. The weather was not good so we were grateful we had had such a good day yesterday. After some cruising round the stunning scenery of Halong Bay, it was back to the harbour and our drive back to Hanoi.

The evening was spent by first having a good meal in the Little Hanoi restaurant followed by a visit to the Water Puppet Theatre. This form of entertainment is unusual to Vietnam and developed from the paddy fields. It is quite different from any other puppet theatre in that the puppets are in the water. In some respects it is a glorified Punch and Judy show but with dragons, boats, animals and ornately dressed puppets. Wonderful music accompanied the antics of the puppets and it made for an interesting hour’s viewing. Ben especially liked it and showed his appreciation by clapping long after everyone else had finished – not sure if he was being ironical but at least he stayed awake!

As I had upgraded from the dorm in the Backpackers, it was lovely to wake up in my comfortable room with spacious shower with hot water. After a huge breakfast which was included in the upgrade I went off to the Women’s Museum which had excellent exhibitions about the role of Women in the American War (as it is called in Vietnam), about marriage and the traditions surrounding marriage for the various minority tribes and information about women who are tricked into prostitution and what is being done to help them. It also showed films about the some women who had come to Hanoi to work selling vegetables, flowers and crockery for very little money to help support their children back in their villages.

The next day was one of the highlights of my trip as it was one I had been planning for some time, a visit to my sponsored child. It was an early start as it was a long way to the district which is one of the poorest in Vietnam and her village is one of the poorest in the district.

Stopped to take a photo and my driver went across stream

After a quick stop at the Health Clinic which Plan has built we were told because of the heavy rain that we might not make it to the village. As you can imagine I was very disappointed but help was at hand in the form of three motorbikes which ferried me, my translator and the guy from the District Office. It was a lovely ride despite the rain and my fear of falling in a paddy field. I think I was on the back of the worst motorbike as it struggled to get up the hills and the brakes were screeching alarmingly on the descents! At one stage I had to wade through a stream and on the return journey the bike conked out in the middle of the same stream so I got wet both ways. When the bikes could go no further the remainder of the journey was on foot which involved walking along the edge of the paddy fields with me muttering to myself ‘don’t fall in, don’t slip!’

Ngoan

Xuyen, Ngoan's brother

Xuyen and Ngoan

Grandma watching children play.  Wish I could sit like that.

Cousin who stole my heart

Family group plus me

Ngoan and her family were waiting. She is 11 years old but looked about 8 but bright and healthy and dressed in what appeared to be new clothes. Her brother was also there and many uncles and cousins and later Grandmas. Ngoan was very shy but politely brought me a towel to dry myself. I looked like a drowned rat with water dripping off my hair. After many cups of tea and going to look at the pigs and dogs, lunch was served. Ngoan’s mother produced a magnificent feast for about 24 people. The men sat on mats on the floor while the women and children sat on little plastic chairs round a rather incongruous glass topped coffee table. The food was really good and had all come from the jungle or their own crops – bamboo shoots, pork, chicken, rice, beancurd etc and was served with rice wine. All the men came to toast me and I was getting worried not only about how much my driver was drinking but also how I was going to walk back along the paddy fields! They seemed to appreciate the gifts I bought for them – school books, fountain pen and ink (!), pencil and rubber plus a bat and ball for the children and cooking oil, fish sauce and biscuits for the family.

Water Buffalo

It was then back to the bikes and the long journey to Hanoi. I caught the overnight train and reached Hue the following morning and rejoined the group.

Although train journey was uneventful and I slept like a log for at least 12 hours, I was lacking in energy so took a cyclo ride round the Citadel. In the evening we went for a meal on the river which was really enjoyable and then back to my lovely single room to relax.

Lily fields outside the Citadel



Me on a cyclo.  Look like I am in a Bath chair



Dragon boats on the river

Floating votive candles on the Perfume River

No rest for the wicked as it was an early start to go on tour to DMZ. We had a very knowledgeable guide who gave us heaps of information about the American war. We stopped to see important locations which I have to confess did not mean a lot to me but the aficionados of war movies recognized the names. At Ta Com airport I was more interested in the coffee plants than the old planes and I purchased some beans to take home.

Coffee Beans

Rockpile or Razorback

Bridge on Ho Chi Minh Trail

Significant signpost

The DMZ runs roughly along the 17th parallel. As we drove along the road it was pointed out that the yellow line in the middle of the road indicated that we were on the Ho Chi Minh Trail. The DMZ consists of a strip of land 5 kms each side of the Ben Hai River. The Truong Son cemetery showed the reality of war with many unmarked graves and a memorial in the middle stating ‘Our Fatherland always remembers your work’. A long bridge showing the divide of the capitalist south from the communist north was followed by Vinh Moc tunnels. It was hard to believe that this beautiful place was the scene of so much bombing and fighting but the bomb craters dotted around told a different story. The tunnels were quite easy and so my worry about not having the right shoes wasn’t necessary. Compared to the Chu Chi tunnels down south they were quite roomy but they were designed for living rather than fighting.

Plane at Ta Con Airport

Map of DMZ

Mandy photographing crashed plane

Odyssey was on bridge dividing capitalist south from communist north

Beach at Vinh Moc tunnels

Family room in the tunnels

One of the exits

In the evening I met up with a lady from the UK to OZ tour who I had been corresponding with and had met in Goreme. Their trip had had many problems and made me more pleased than ever that I had come with Odyssey.

Next day we were on the road to Hoi An. It was hot but as lovely as I remember and the sales people were just as aggressive! Stopped and bought mini mangoes, mandarins and an avocado. Back at hotel had a warm swim in the pool and then it was off on a quest to have clothes made, unsuccessfully for me. The hotel provided free cocktails so we made the most of those!

View on the way to Hoi An