Getting in to Thailand was easy except for the sharp US$50 visa which would have been free if we had been staying for less than 14 days or if we had flown in - very strange as Thailand is so set up for travellers that you would have thought they would have wanted us there for as long as possible! The only other problem was the walk between borders as there is no through bus but fortunately CJ was a perfect gentleman and helped me with my bag and Jim later took over. Something is telling me that I need to lighten my load!
The Hotel Erawan was comfortable and the porter carried my bag up the four flights of stairs to our room which was a little on the small side but as long as we didn't both want to stand up and do anything at the same time it worked fine.
The afternoon was spent having first a foot massage and then a Thai massage which were both wonderful. Made a mental note of the masseur's name (or least Mel did as I had forgotten it within two minutes) with a plan to return.
Bangkok did not immediately endear itself to me and after a frustrating day of people "helping" us with a view of trying to scam us in some way my thoughts did not change.
We found a reasonable Tuk Tuk driver who took us out to the largest Buddha in Thailand which was not that impressive after the amazing one in China. It looked liked it had been pressed out from gold coloured tin foil. At that complex we also saw a sitting Buddha, a reclining Buddha and a kneeling Buddha and were all Buddha'd out by then. Rather more interesting was a kick boxing school with a kick boxer sleeping in the ring and next door a school with lovely children who were being taught by a monk. He did not seem to mind me wandering in and taking photos.
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| Standing Buddha |
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| In Standing Buddha complex |
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| School children being taught by a Monk |
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| Kick boxing school |
The Grand Palace was grand with beautiful buildings and statues and a huge amount of gold glitter. The Jade/Emerald Buddha was small and just lovely and I was happy to sit and stare at it for a while and the Changing of the Guard was its usual spectacle but the annoyance afterwards of trying of get a taxi or tuk tuk to take us back to the hotel damped my enthusiasm for the place.
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| Democracy Square |
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| Pink Taxi |
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| Grand Palace |
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| At Grand Palace |
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| Detail on one of buildings in Grand Palace |
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| In Grand Palace |
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| Detail of building in Grand Palace |
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| Me being a tourist! |
We were having a girls' night out so got out the new clothes and shoes (with flip flops in my handbag for when the shoe pain got too great!) and piled into a mini bus which took us through the horrific traffic to central Bangkok. Our destination was the Vertigo Bar at the Banyan Tree Hotel. We were whisked up the 57 stories in a few seconds and the view was as spectacular as we had been led to believe. The expensive cocktails were delicious - mine being a mixture of vodka, chilli, ginger and lemongrass which was vaguely reminiscent of a Thai green curry!
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| Bangkok at night |
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| Me in the Vertigo Bar |
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| The night sky from the Vertigo Bar |
After we headed to the Soho of Bangkok to experience what everyone should when in town - a totally tasteless , rather boring girly show. Many of our group got ripped off but fortunately I had the correct money to pay for my beer and refused to pay for the coca cola for the "hostess" or for the massage that she was trying to give me!
Tuk tuks took us back to our area of town and after a couple of vodkas in Lucy’s room a few of us headed to Khao San Road which was heaving. After another cocktail Mel and I headed back to the hotel unlike some of the diehards who stayed out much later. Bangkok is not a town I am ever going to like. It is full of backpackers (nothing wrong in that) and people who are trying to extract their money. In the whole five months we have been away, I have never felt that people were trying to swindle us but apart from the lovely people in the local shops and restaurants it seemed like everyone was out to over- promise and under-deliver. I am disappointed because I have long wanted to come to Thailand and so far it has not lived up to my expectations but it is only day three of our stay here so maybe things will improve. At least I am more aware now.
The next day was better as we took the river boat and then the Skytrain to see Jim Thompson’s house. A nice young man warned us not to listen to the touts trying to get us to take a private boat and he did not want anything from us! The boat was a good experience as we were able to see Bangkok from the back as it were. People still live on Chao Phraya River which at the moment is very high so the water was lapping at their verandahs.
We got off the boat a stop too early but that enabled me to get some photos printed to send to my sponsored child and to walk through a non-touristy area of town. The Skytrain was quick and efficient and an old man pointed out the way to Jim Thompson’s house. I had never heard of Jim Thompson but was so pleased we went out to his house. He was posted to South East Asia during the war and when it ended was sent to work for the military in Bangkok. He fell in love with the place and decided to live here permanently. In civilian life he had been an architect and he combined six teak buildings to become his home. I just wanted to pack it into my backpack and bring it back to Australia. It was beautiful and full of the most exquisite antiques and wall hangings. The garden was a haven of peace and filled with tropical plants and bowls and pools with fish. He was a highly gifted designer and worked to make Thai silk known in the west. On 26th March 1967 he disappeared while on a visit to the Cameron Highlands of Malaysia. Not a clue has turned up as to what might have happened to him. His house passed on to his business partner who left it to the Thai Government and they have done a great job in keeping his legacy alive for the people of Thailand.
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| At Jim Thompson's house |
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| At Jim Thompson's house |
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| At Jim Thompson's house |
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| At Jim Thompson's house |
We went on to China Town which was a busy, chaotic, jumble of tiny streets selling the same old thing. We ate a couple of things off the street and then made our way to pier 5 to meet some of the others for a boat trip round the canals. I should have backed out at this stage because it was obviously going to pour with rain and rain it did. I was sitting on the wet side of the boat and it was like sitting under a shower. For two hours I sat in a damp puddle even after the rain had stopped. The canals were not an attractive way to see Bangkok and apart from an area of fish feeding frenzy, a giant goanna eating a fish and some lovely people waving to us, it had minimal interest for me and at 400 baht was an expensive excursion but our captain kindly took us back to Pier 13 so we were close to the hotel. The others went off for food but I got takeaway and went back to hotel to dry off and to discover that the colour in my red and white sundress bought in Vietnam had run. Obviously I will have to go clothes shopping in Chang Mai again!
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| On canal at night |
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| Fish feeding frenzy |
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| Goanna eating huge fish |
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| On the boat |
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| Denis buying beer |
Another early start for the Floating Market. This excursion was rather more interesting as the market was packed with tourist boats and sellers vying to sell their wares. There was nothing particularly interesting to buy so was able to keep my purse shut which was just as well as I could not fit another pea into my luggage. We spent an hour at the market with a lady paddling us around and then transferred to a long-tail speed boat for a trip along the residential canals. Our speed boat had a bit of a problem and kept conking out but we eventually reached our destination which was a rather attractive complex of buildings round the canal. It had been done up for tourist purposes with restaurant etc. but looked good.
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| Floating market |
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| Floating market |
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| Floating market |
I spent the afternoon posting last week’s blog, having a great Thai massage and eating Pad Thai. It was pouring with rain when we caught bus for the station and the traffic was gridlocked. If I had been travelling alone I would have been having kittens but the joy of this trip is that it is someone else’s responsibility! In the end we made it on time and the train was late leaving probably due to the bad weather and people not arriving on time. Instead of sharing with Emily and Mandy, Mel and I were with a Thai man who kept himself very firmly behind his curtains the whole way. The train was comfortable and I had a good night’s sleep although was rather on the chilly side. The air-conditioning was cranked up a notch too high.
Morning came, as it does and our exuberant rather gay waiter pranced up and down the aisle selling us coffee and breakfast. I had brought breakfast with me which was just as well as between us Mel and I now have totally empty purses!
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| Mel and I in our cabin |
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| Computer activity on the train |
Our hotel in Chang Mai was fine and bedrooms were roomy so were able to spread out. Wandered about getting our bearings and took tuk tuk to see the Monk’s chanting in the early evening. It was a wonderful peaceful sound and the atmosphere was even more special because all the dogs came and sat or lay on the steps to listen. They were not after anything because once the chanting stopped, they moved away again.
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| Monks chanting |
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| Dogs listening to Monks chanting |
It was then back to mass consumerism in the form of the Night Market. What a market – the best we have seen so far I think. It had everything you never knew you wanted and great will power and the fact that my backpack is full to overflowing had to be exercised. However, a few things did get purchased so it will be a visit to the Post Office in Kanchanbura to post back such essentials as fairy lights, soap and various presents. The earings to which I seem to have become addicted will stay with me! I was also able to pick us a great Omega watch for £4 – hope it lasts longer than Zoe’s did which was only 24 hours.
A lie in was had the following morning followed by more walking of the town. Of all the countries we have visited so far Thailand has been the only one that has disappointed me. I suppose it is a country that I have long dreamed of visiting but so far I am not impressed. There are far too many foreigners. Ok I know I am one of them but that doesn’t count and far too many seedy looking men with young Thai girls. In Bangkok everyone seemed out to scam you and Chang Mai seems quite charmless. The Wats are lovely but how many Wats can a person take in one day! It becomes a case of what Wat?
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| Tuk Tuk |
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| Kids practising dancing |
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| In Chang Mai |
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| One of the many dragons outside Wats |
The sky got blacker and blacker so we ducked into a wonderful café where the owner obviously had a sense of humour as some of his posters were most amusing. The Pad Thai was good and wrapped in a pancake which was a nice idea. The rain was as heavy as we thought it would be which caused a great deal of activity in the restaurant sweeping and mopping. This place restored my faith in the country a little as everyone was so nice.
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| Tropical rain from the comfort of lovely cafe |
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| Poster in cafe |
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| What a great poster! |
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| Chang Mai |
The Saturday walking street was our next destination where I nibbled on sushi, wontons and calamari as I went along. Back to the hotel for a refreshing beer and then on to the Night Market – no rest for the market addict. I think I can safely say that I am all marketed out for the minute anyway – anyone want to come to Eumundi Market with me when I get to Australia?
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| City Walls |
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| Dogs in Walking Street |
Set off on my own to explore over the river. Went past a large locals’ market but kept eyes firmly ahead. Crossing over the river into a quieter part of town, I went into a lovely looking teahouse but prices drove me out again and after a visit to a lovely shop selling cards made from recycled paper and unfortunately earings – so cute and so cheap – I ended up having my iced coffee at a café on the banks of the river. A further stroll took me to the Iron Bridge and back into town where I met Melissa.
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| Wat around corner from hotel |
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| Wat around corner from hotel |
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| Mickey Mouse enjoying noodles outside Wat |
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| Flags |
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| Bas relief outside Dog Wat |
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| View from my coffee stop |
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| The Iron Bridge |
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Hippies are alive and well in Chang Mai
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Together we went back into town to the Women’s Prison for a foot massage. Mandy had told us about this and for £3 we were able to have a one hour massage by girls who were in the last six months of their sentence. I asked my girl why she was there and she said it was because she was caught taking drugs. She hoped to work as a masseur once she was released. They also had handcraft for sale there and other prisoners were trained in catering and ran the café. What a great idea and hopefully all the pretty young girls working there will be rehabilitated and not reoffend. With lighter feet, it was back to yesterday’s café for another dose of Pad Thai before attacking the Sunday walking street. I am definitely over markets and so glad I have a week in the jungle near the beach coming up where there are hopefully no shops or markets within reach.
A 5.00 a.m. start and we were reunited with Calypso for our long day down to Kanchanabura. The roads were good but it was still a long day so most of us just went over the hotel restaurant which was very pretty but the food was rather ordinary. The rooms of the hotel were most attractive but appearances are not everything – the toilet didn’t flush, the light in the bathroom did not work and the shower head had only one position – pointing to the floor. So once I can find someone who speaks English I shall be having words.
After a look at the breakfast prices, I headed into town and had a very reasonable breakfast including baked beans in a local café. A friendly tuk tuk driver took me back to hotel and I engaged his services to take me to the sights. I was glad I did as everything seemed a long way from everywhere and it was hot and humid. Our first stop was the Jeath Museum which was a rather touching collection of pictures and memorabilia housed in a replica of one of the huts that the prisoners would have lived in. As usual one is horrified by man’s inhumanity to his fellow man and throughout this trip we have seen so many examples of it. It would be wonderful to think that the world could live in peace but there does not seem any chance of that any time soon.
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| View from Jeath Museum |
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| Bomb |
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| Replica hut used by the prisoners of war |
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| Monks at Wat near Jeath Museum |
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| Flags of the Nations involved on the Death Railway |
After the museum, I went to War Cemetery which is maintained by the War Graves Commission so beautifully kept with flowers between the headstones. I cannot visit these places without coming out with tears in my eyes. The futility of it all and the lives never fulfilled is heartbreaking and I am only pleased that my children, apart from James who served in the Gulf but assured me he did not see any action, have not had to experience war as indeed I have not.
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| The cemetery in Kanchanaburi |
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| A soldier's grave from the Signals Regiment |
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| The Chinese Cemetery |
The Bridge over the River Kwai was teeming with tourists but as always tourists are a lazy lot and a little walk down the tracks and I was by myself and slightly able to imagine how it must have been.
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| Bridge over the River Kwai |
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| A more peaceful River Kwai nowadays |
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| The Death Railway |
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| A signal hut on the Death Railway |
My tuk tuk driver took me back to the hotel and we passed a few of my group heading off to the waterfall but I decided a quiet afternoon was in order.
The following morning a group of us headed out to Hell Fire Pass for more reminders of the tragedy of war. The museum gave an excellent acccount and we then walked down many steps to reach the level of the railway.
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| Memorial at Hell Fire Pass museum |
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| View from the museum |
This lovely area which saw such cost in human life if now preserved for future generations and as we walked along the old tracks you felt a real spirit of the comradeship and suffering that the men who were forced to work on this track must have felt. We had recorders with us so were able to move at our own pace and to listen to the voices of some of the survivors.
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| Walking along the track |
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| Memorial on Hell Fire Pass |
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| Old lamp |
Hell Fire Pass got its name because of the lamps that burnt at night together with the smoke and from above it looked like Dante's Inferno. We walked a way along the track soaking up the atmosphere and in our own way paying our respects to the fallen. So many things on this trip have touched me and this was one of the most emotional especially as the Last Post was being played over the recorder.
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| The track |
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| Sir "Weary" Dunlop -a great Australian |
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| Old sleepers |
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| View from Hell Fire Pass |
Leaving the Pass we went to the Tiger Wat. This is a place where the monks look after injured tigers but it was expensive to go in and having read some reports on the internet about the place, I decided not to go. However the members of our group who did go in raved about it and got some wonderful photographs so maybe I should have gone and seen for myself. The area outside which should have been maintained as it was where we parked was filthy and smelt awful but everyone said the tigers seemed well cared for and one can only hope that they are not breeding them to sell as pets which is what one of the internet sites says.
Tonight I am going in to town to have steak and kidney pie, mashed potato and mushroom gravy which will be a lovely change from noodles or rice. Tomorrow we have a long day to get down to the islands where we are having a holiday from our holiday. I am going to a remote part of Kho Phangan to a place call SeaView so I will be out of touch for a week although can still receive emails hopefully. So till next time.
