Week 10 - Lakes, Mountains and Goat Polo in Kyrgyzstan

Leaving Bishkek the scenery became more and more interesting. With the lake on our left and the snow capped mountains on our right the journey continued until we were held up while workmen caused an avalanche of large boulders for roadworks and presumably safety.

Man controlled avalanche

We stopped in a lovely shady café where we drank green tea. The service was really fast and efficient and when Sandra asked if she could buy some infused vinegar that was on the table, the owner said she could have it for free. Eventually Issyk Kul came into view. It is the second largest alpine lake after Lake Titicaca. The sign rather bizarely said “Issyk Kul Biosphere Reserve”. We continued to drive around the lake and headed off down a track which took us to a little beach where we camped. It was an idyllic spot. The hardy Irish, Ben and Aiofe, plus Richard took the plunge but the rest of us were happy to sit round the camp fire and chill out. Went to sleep to the sound of the waves.

Aiofe & Ben, the hardy Irish

Camping at Issykol Lake

Awoke to the sound of the waves and screams as people went into the water. After breakfast we continued round the lake passing interesting cemeteries which looked like small towns and people making hay in the old fashioned way with horses and carts piled high. We reached the town of Karakol where shopping was done for our three nights bushcamp. I headed for the food, of course, and had a delicious bowl of cold noodles with spicy sauce and a vinegary dressing.

Family in Karakol Market

Noodle seller in Karakol Market

After we continued driving going higher and higher. The scenery was fabulous with snow capped mountains. We stopped to take photos of the Seven Bulls Mountains and continued climbing. There were five bridges to cross and as they were wooden most of us got off and walked over collecting fallen wood as we went for the fire.

The Seven Bulls Mountains

CJ & Steve on wood patrol

On road to Djetei Arguss

Calypso crossing rickety wooden bridge

Eventually we reached our destination and camped in a peaceful spot near the river. People sat and make Christmas decorations and relaxed. Colin and Russ got a Christmas tree which was then decorated. The chickens were cooked in the large camp oven over the fire but I think they had run the marathon as they were certainly no spring chickens. Went to sleep to the sound of the river.




Marking Christmas Decorations



Horses at Djetei Arguss

Decorating the Christmas Treet

Cow praying to Calypso

The following morning the hardy went and climbed mountains, the rest of us drank champagne and orange juice to celebrate our Christmas in June or the summer solstice. The weather was rather changeable and I was even more pleased that I had not climbed any mountain. The day was spent very pleasantly sitting and chatting, collecting firewood and doing some washing up for the cook group. As late afternoon came, people returned from walks and we congregated round the fire and played the “Mummy” game which involved me and various others being wrapped in toilet paper! We then had our Secret Santa and the presents ranged from the totally tasteless to rather nice mementos of Kyrgyzstan. Mine was a gold sequined cap like Kylie Minogue wore in some video clip and will come in handy for the bad taste evening. Dinner was Roast Lamb and all the trimmings followed by a Christmas Pudding made by Wendy. All delicious and a memorable Christmas in June.

Colin and I in tasteless Christmas Present hats

Flaming Christmas Pudding

Aiofe blowing Christmas bubbles

Whilst is had rained during the night, the day dawned bright, sunny and hot. I actually braved a wash in the cold river and managed to wash some clothes. Some went riding but five of us walked up the track to a little settlement where a family was making flat bread and a little boy was cuddling two lambs. After a few photos, they gave us some bread and we took off quickly before they gave us some fermented mares milk which definitely a taste that I have no wish to acquire. I did try it and it tastes like off feta cheese. I don’t think it will catch on in Australian cafes!

Walk up the valley

Family who gave us flat bread

Little boy and his lambs

Brother and sister

Panning for gold

Later I walked up to the tree line and enjoyed the lovely fresh air and beautiful scenery. On the way back I started walking with a young couple who had a baby in a papoose. The young man asked if I spoke Russian and when I told him I didn’t but that I spoke Turkish he promptly started speaking Turkish to me which he had apparently learnt at school.

Lovely family who spoke Turkish

The following morning we drove to Karakol where we stayed in a very nice homestay. The family were there to greet us with a morning tea of assorted biscuits and dried fruit. We had to shop as we were on cook group which involved a lot of running around with our guide Anastasia. It was hot and by the time we got back we were all rather tired and grumpy and the intended return to town to go to the internet did not happen. Instead we got started on the vodka which probably was not the best idea as it was a long drive the following day. I will not be posting any of the photos of myself imitating Melissa and Lucy rolling on the ground at the previous bushcamp!

Orthodox Church in Karakol

Chinese mosque in Karakol

The following morning it was a subdued me who climbed aboard Calypso for a very long drive up to Song Kol Lake. We stopped at lunchtime to see a felt making demonstration at the Women’s Co-operative. There were some lovely things to buy but I restrained myself and only got a Christmas decoration.

Denis treading the felt

Our afternoon drive took us up above the snowline and past many yurts where everyone came out to wave to us.

Yurt

At the snowline

View from the mountain pass

Our camp was a long way from the lake as it was too marshy to get closer and the initial reaction was one of disappointment as the previous camp had been so beautiful but we soon settled in and were visited by the children from a neighbouring yurt. The kids were so cute and apart from Fatima, the youngest, their names were unpronounceable so Jim nicknamed them big Dave, Diesel Dave (he had a Diesel woolen cap on), Little Dave and The Dude!

The Dude and friend

The family from the nearby yurt plus a friend

Fatima

Watching Wendy in her tent

My cook group with Anastasia leading made Lagman, a national dish, which although delicious involved using every pan and every gas ring. The rain was lashing down which made it is a difficult and not that pleasurable task. Dishes were left for the morning and my sleeping bag was warm and toasty.

The following morning was cold and sitting around outside was not really an option but gradually the sun came out, the children came visiting and it was warm enough to play with them outside. They were very interested in Denis’s diary, loved making models with plastercine, drawing, helping digging a new poo hole and playing with the bat and ball.

Zoe playing with the children

There was only one girl among them, Fatima, aged 4 but looked younger. At one stage her father came and collected her and by one arm hoisted her up on to his horse. I am sure she will have arthritis when she gets older. Half and hour later she came skipping back from her yurt. The fun was better than the rest that had been planned for her. They were very sweet children and did not ask for anything but we gave them fruit, soft toys (Jim was very happy to be rid of the fairy wings off the truck) and lollies. The Dude (aged 4) turned up on a huge horse and the others rushed around showing him and his friend everything they had been playing with. At lunchtime their father came and collected them and took them home to the yurt. The weather was threatening again so I put all my thermals back on in preparation for goat polo which was going to take place.

I was horrified when they turned up with a live goat over the front of one of the saddles and disappeared into the truck while prayer were said over it and it was ritually killed, bled and its head cut off. I kept reminding myself that this game was an old tradition of theirs and part of their culture and that the goat would go into the pot after it was all over. The game itself was great fun, played in teams of two, and the object was the get the goat off your opponent and drop it on a blanket. It was a game of tactics and blocking and very fast with no boundaries so every so often all the spectators, and there were a lot of us as all the local yurt families had come to watch, had to beat a hasty retreat so avoid being run over by the horses, Fatima was pulled out of the way on various occasions. The goat was heavy and had to be tucked under the rider’s leg and the wrestling for the goat was quite vicious. After they had played several rounds, the young kids joined in and even the Dude was in the thick of things and when he got his hand on the leg and was pulling the whole crowd cheered. It was lovely to see the older boys and men encouraging the young ones to have a go.

Goat Polo

Families from nearby yurts

The Dude

Goat polo

After the men and horses were exhausted, there was a game of kiss chase. The young good looking man (Lucy’s intended husband although he was about 16 years too young for her) chased on horse a young girl. If he had caught her, he could have had a kiss but as he did not, in the next round she chased him whipping him. It was all in great humour especially as she had to change her red mule shoes for her brother’s gum boots to ride the horse and the poor boy was walking around in red mules until it was all over and they could swop back.

Kiss chase

In the evening Richard and Andrea had arranged a quiz night which was based on bad taste and we all got dressed up in our bad taste gear which I was then happy to leave behind for our Kyrgy friends. My team came a disappointing last but ended up with a very good wooden spoon and a bottle of bubbles!

Russ in bad taste grear

Wendy and Zoe on bad taste night