2nd week on Calypso



Lunch on the road to Turda Gorge

 So the first week passed in a bit of a blur and we are now old hands at the art of packing up the tent, getting it into its bag and securing the tape.  The first few days it just did not work but Papa Bear (Russ) took time to show us how to do it properly and first time!  The drive from Budapest was pretty flat although the scenery was enlivened by the fields of bright yellow rape which cheered up the landscape.  After the Romanian border we stopped by the side of the road in a service station.  A less picturesque place would be hard to imagine but as Jim said there is a loo, a supermarket and a street market, what more could you want?  We reached the campsite at Turda Gorge which was initially a bit of a disappointment as we had been expecting to bush camp and there were a lot of people around but there was a loo which was a bonus point and when the day trippers had gone home (it was Easter Monday) it was beautiful and very peaceful.



Camp site at Turda Gorge

 After breakfast of  baked beans and porridge, CJ organised a gentle walk along the gorge with the mountain rescue guys. Their idea of gentle and mine did not match. At first it was very pleasant walking along with the stream tinkling away alongside us and then after a visit to a cave we started to climb and climb and climb. Eventually we reached the top and had our sandwiches and they suggested an easy climb down to see a special cave. So a difficult scramble down revealed a none too spectacular cave. I thought my troubles were over but they had only just began as the walk down was much harder as the ground was very slippery. I made it with the help of the mountain rescue guy and Colin and was much relieved to be back at camp level after only three slips onto my bottom!

The following day we reached Sighisoara after a stop for shopping at the local supermarket.  Our shopping tour through Eastern Europe showed an interesting and different side to our travels.  The supermarkets are vast and filled with a large range of products that are easily recognizable plus others that were unidentifiable.  This particular store had an area where you could buy your lunch and then eat it at a table standing up.  The chicken livers purchased there were delicious. I also purchased some kiwis, bananas, cream cheese and a banana.  Sighisoara came into view in all its glory and it looked like a wonderful place to spend the afternoon.  The thought of having a room, a comfy bed, a shower and a bath was quite exciting after ten days in a tent and after a long hot shower and washing some clothes, Melissa and I headed into town.  Naturally we came across a number of our party in a bar but I headed off into the historic part of town and enjoyed quietly walking the streets.  Although being a UNESCO World Heritage site the town is geared in a small way to tourism and has been restored in a sympathetic manner and I was able to walk entirely by myself through the back streets of the town up to the top of the hill.  The long walk was rewarded by two men playing wonderful music on guitars at the top of the covered stairs that took me back ito town. A meal of beans with pork and sausage and 1/2 litre of sangria ended a good day.

The Clock Tower

The Bootmaker's Tower

The following morning, a quick dash to the supermarket netted some bread rolls, yoghurt and juice for breakfast and then the long drive to Bucharest which was broken by a visit to the incredible Peles Castle.  Walking up the long drive, the castle looked like something out of fairy tale and when inside the castle


Peles Castle



Bears - not a one in sight


this impression was reinforced with the sumptuous carved wood, enormous mirrors, gilt and silver and the Turkish room was a mass of wonderful carpets and fabrics.  Even though the place was so opulent you still had the feeling that it was once a home and a very modern one at that with central vacuum system, central heating and lift.  The library had a hidden staircase so that the King could get to his private rooms without petitioners who were waiting for him being able to see him. 

At Bucharest we quickly got organised and dinner of coq au vin with mushrooms was on the table in no time at all.  The following morning we caught taxis into town which took us through fine avenues and parks into the centre of town which was rather a disappointment being drab and rather derelict looking.  As it was the day of the Royal Wedding after a cup of coffee at McDonalds, a group of us headed to a bar which had a TV and we ensconced ourselves for the best part of the day.  The bar had great internet access and we were able to charge all our computers, cameras etc and apart from building works going on across the road and the constant sound of jackhammers we spent an enjoyable time there. 

Andrea, Zoe and Wendy outside the
People's Palace

After the kiss on the balcony, we headed off to the People's Palace which is the 2nd largest building in the world after the Pentagon. Such an opulent display of grandeur in a poor country seems indecent but in appears too often be the way. It is actually rather a lump of a building and not pleasing aesthetically but I suppose it showed power to the people.

Bucharest

Romanian commentator for Royal
Wedding

A group dinner had been organised and as the rain was threatening a very quick walk took us to the restaurant which specialised in Romanian food.  We walked through the cafe area of town which was very smart and gave the impression that Bucharest could evenutally be rather an exciting town but right now it still has some work to do on its image.



Charlie Chaplin with mice running round his hat


Romanian food is maybe not the most delicious cuisine I have ever experienced being rather stodgy and heavy but my meal of chicken stuffed vine leaves was fine.  However, the polenta was pretty bland but I had been warned!  What it needed was plenty of parmasen cheese and black pepper, neither of which was offered.

A taxi took us back to camp in record speed.


The following morning it was back to the truck for the drive to our next camp near Veliko Tarnova.  This site is run by two Brits, Nick and Nicky and was well organised with serviced washing facilities, great showers and a restaurant on site.  The weather had been poor but was reasonably kind to us during our stay which was meant to be two nights but ended up being three as we were very comfortable there and the thought of packing up  for a bush camp in the forecast rain was not very appealing. 



Entrance to camp site

 After setting up the tent, Wendy, Colin and I walked into the little village which did not have a lot to offer but we did chat to some old ladies and asked to take their photos.  They were not keen on the idea miming that they were too old!  The following morning a delicious hot shower and eggy bread for breakfast was a great start to the day.  Went with Colin and Wendy into Veliko Tarnova which is the second largest city in Bulgaria.  We were surprised to see crowds of people milling around the square and waiting to go up to the Castle. 

Castle at Veliko Tarnova


We spent a couple of hours walking round the site.  It was an interesting place but had been rather over restored, Turkish style.  A good cup of coffee was had at a very smart hotel and then following the recommendation of Lonely Planet we walked up the steps to the old town of Varosha where there were some interesting shops with lovely glass and ceramics.  Resisting the glasses that you could jump on and they would not smash, I was unable to resist a small bowl with handle in the red colour of my Poole pottery vases.  The prices were so reasonable that it wasn't easy not the buy up the whole shop.  After all the castle looking and shopping, food was necessary and a delicious pizza of apple, sultana and walnut with mozarella cheese made an interesting and light (it was said to be a diet pizza which seems to be a bit of a contradiction in terms) lunch.  Back at camp, loaded photos onto Picassa and waited for our dinner of roast beef and all the trimmings in the camp restaurant.


Old town of Varosha



Eating pizza of apple, raisin and walnut



Old town of Veliko Tarnova

 The following morning, it was bacon, eggs, tomato and mushroom before a walk up into the hills which ended, due to our fearless leader Steve turning right instead of left, (where were you Papa Bear) walking along a rather brambly train track.  Some bag reorginazation was necessary for our stay in Istanbul before an early night.