3rd week on Calypso

So the third week started and everyone seems to be settling into overlanding life. For my part I now sleeping well in the tent and seem to have either worked out the coldness at night problem or have become acclimatized. Of course it could be that the weather is warming up as we move south! Time will tell as Capadoccia will be cold at night so maybe my new found confidence will be shattered. Also the Blog or Battle of the Blog as I have come to think of it as seems to becoming easier and I am determined to keep it up to date so that I don't end up with a massive task at week end.



In line for the Turkish border

 Leaving Bulgaria meant an early start and we were expecting a long day which proved to be the case. This was one time we were allowed to call Calypso a bus which enabled us to pass literally miles of trucks queueing to go through the border. The poor drivers looked like they would be for days. Getting the visas and being checked through passport control but quick and easy, visiting the cafe and toilet took us another half hour or so and then we waited and waited and waited - six hours in total.

 It wasn't a great surprise to Jim, CJ or myself being used to Turkish beauracracy but I think the others were a little surprised. Some people read or updated diaries, others played games but all of us were very relieved when we were told we could go. We did have a steady stream of people come over and talk to us about where were were going and what we were doing and we waved at all the rally cars that came through for the big meeting in Istanbul. Once we hit Turkey it was a straight drive through to Istanbul with just one loo break. The one way system which has changed in recent months meant we did a bit of a Cook's tour before reaching the hostel. At one point we were in a Mexican standoff with five men yelling at Jim who remained totally calm. CJ had run up the hill to tell the hostel we were there and to find out about parking. In the midst of the mahyem, another man came up and told Jim that if he wanted a haircut, his barber's was just round the corner - could only happen in Turkey. Bags in room, a bowl of soup and an Efes beer restored me.

The following morning after a good night's sleep in my dorm of eight, I took a group to the Underground Cistern.  Unfortunately the weather was extremely unkind in the form of torrential rain.  We walked past some of the rally cars that had passed us the previous day and I vowed to come back later when the rain had stopped to take photos.  The rain did not stop, I did not take photos and the following day they had gone.  Carpe diem!  Back to the hostel and the Battle of the Blog continued much to CJ's amusement.  I think he will always link me with the term "resizing".  But a victory was achieved and the first week was posted.  I felt like I had won a million pounds!

After an excellent breakfast, continued to work on 2nd week of blog.  Defeat was not an option!  Sue, my friend from Adapazari arrived at about 11.00 and we walked up the Divan Yolu to have a good cup of coffee and a little apple cake for me.  Our object for the day was a walking tour of Beyazit which started with the Sehrezade Mosque which is near the Valens Aquaduct.  The Mosque has the most magnificent exterior but one feels that maybe they had run out of money as the inside is relatively plain but still lovely. 

Inside Serahzade Cami

Then on to the Vefa Bozacesi which is one of the older Boza establishments in Istanbul. Boza for the uninitiated is fermented turnip juice. Sounds disgusting and not something I have been tempted to try. I was just lining up to take the perfect photograph when a limousine with four smartly suited businessmen drew up, blocked the photo and went in to purchase the juice so someone must like it. Inside there is the cup, in a glass case, which Ataturk used when he visited the establishment.

Ataturk's Cup

Then it was a visit to the Kalenderhane Mosque which was formerly a church and where it is still possible to see the remains of frescoes.

Kalenderhane Mosque

Remains of Frescoes

Again this was a very different and interesting site and one not usually found by visitors to Istanbul. The toilet there was especially interesting as you went into what looked like a cellar but it was clean and quite savoury. At this stage in the trip the toilets are becoming less European and the squat is the norm in varying degrees of cleanliness.





Then a trip by tram across the river, a quick visit to the Fish Markets under the Galata Bridge, a ride on the Tunel up to Istiklar Cad. and we were in a different world.  Over there it is a smart hip happening area with expensive clothes and coffee shops.  A quick visit to St. Anthony's Church, the Flower Passage and the Fish Passage was followed by a hot chocolate with chilli which was unusual but probably won't be a repeated drink.  We continued wandering checking out restaurants for the following evening and walked back down the hill through the second hand shops and to a wonderful deli with an amazing array of cheese and cooked meat.



St Anthony's Church



Cicek Pasaji (Flower Passage)



A comfortable place to sleep





Back to Sultanhamet where Sue and I consumed a few glasses of the Hostel's excellent red wine and she ended up staying the night in the spare bed in our dorm.

Tile in Rusten Pasa Cami

The following day was taken up with rediscovering places that I have previously liked, the Spice Market, Rusten Pasa Cami, The Grand Bazaar and just wandering the streets. In the evening I took a crowd of the "oldies" over to Istiklar Cad again where we saw some of the sights I had seen the previous day and went to a restaurant recommended by Sue and Istanbul Eats. Keith was taken into the kitchen and I wished I had gone as they had excellent meze and the plate of lamb which although tasty wasn't very interesting.

The next morning was an early start due to a long day. The hostel had provided us with cheese and tomato rolls so we kept going until a loo break was necessary. When we stopped for lunch, a couple of guys came over and asked us not to light a fire as it was a petrol station!  They then very obligingly filled our thermos so we were able to have tea or coffee.

Eventually arrived at Kaya Camping.  It was a very cold night and when we were offered the cave to sleep in complete with log fire it was an easy choice for most of us.  I even got a bed so was really in luxury.  CJ rustled up pide for us and while most of the men decided to hit the bars in town, the rest of us had an hysterical evening due to Wendy's wig.  Russ looked just like one of the ABBA guys in it and Susan made a wonderful butch man with the addition of shoulder pads and socks stuffed in strategic places.  It was a great night.

Kaya camping

The following morning was taken up with domestic chores and internet.  Wendy and Colin could not connect and as their Kindle had broken too (3 out of 7 on the truck), they used mine to speak to Amazon.  Amazon would not send theirs to Azerbeycan so they will have to wait until they get back to New Zealand for a replacement.  At lunch time we headed off into Goreme and had just started walking up one of the valleys when clumsy me trod on a stone and twisted my ankle badly.  Fortunately we were not far into the walk so I hobbled back to main road and got a taxi back to the camp.  I spent the rest of the afternoon sitting with my foot in a bucket of water as Efes beer does not make a good cold compress so I had to drink it instead.  While I was waiting for the taxi a Turkish man came up and asked me if I needed help.  He then proceeded to do Keinesiology.  Of course I do not know whether it was that, the Ibuprofen, the homeopatic pills, the cold water, the Ibuprofen cream, the bandage, the beer or the red wine at dinner but I had a good night and it was much reduced in size by the following morning.  So most of my photos were either taken while waiting for the taxi at the Bufe or from my seat in the campsite.

Capadoccia Landscape

Capadoccia Landscape

 

Everyone was very kind and ran around getting me cups of tea etc and Andrea very expertly bandaged my foot.

We went as a group out for dinner to eat lamb cooked in pottery jars.  They knock the top of the jar at the table and the lamb is succulent and delicious.

Minaret at sunset



It was a good evening and Lucy's birthday so some of the girls had made up a little ditty which was most amusing. In the lower room of the restaurant there were some interesting antiques and I spent some time trying out different exposures on the camera but I think the camera is considerably cleverer than I am and takes the best photos on auto.

Antiques in restaurant

 Back to camp and a chatty evening was spent near the fire until bed time.
 

Keith and Sanda snug as bugs in
the cave!

 
The following morning the gang set off for day tour but Cinderalla stayed behind.  I had done tour before and knew that I would spend a lot of time on the bus while they were walking or going into the underground city.  I was quite happy with my blog and got to talk to some friends on the computer.  At lunch time I took a taxi into town and had lentil soup which was delicious and decided against buying a rug for next camp.  I will pick up something cheaply at a service station somewhere which I can dispose of in Nepal when we stop camping. 

Jim hanging out his smalls!

Getting arty when I could not move